Feta and I have something in common. We really love the cold and we really love the heat. The cold is invigorating; we are sharp and strong. The heat causes us to mellow, to relax and to soften.

Folks tend to think that when it comes to Hellenic cheeses, Halloumi is the king for cooking, maybe Kefalotyri, if you can get it. That’s the one you’ll often be served when ordering Saganaki, the amazing fried cheese dish that lifts any mezze meal, with Zeus-level awe.

This is a lazy recipe. And it has a lazier varient, still. I think it was Nigel Slater who inspired me to take a block of Feta, the supermarket cheese world’s equivalent of UHT milk, place it on a sheet of foil, drizzle on some olive oil and store cupboard herbs (oregano for me, because, well, I’m awake) and bake it for 20 mins. Then, scoop it out of the unwrapped foil with that rather economical, yet consistent, shop-bought pita bread. Chop a couple of tomatoes or roast them alongside it and there’s your meal.

The first time I made this, I wove the courgette ribbons into a little criss-cross mat of sorts, then wrapped it around the Feta. It looked like a fancier version than this one and it’s recommended if you want to impress your friends. The real impressing comes when they realise how delicious it is. For now, when many people can’t have their pals around to their house for dinner, you can cook this to impress yourself and nourish your eye as well as your belly.

INGREDIENTS

Block of Feta, I try to buy organic but truly any kind will work, even the one billed “Greek Salad Cheese” if money is tight

1 courgette (some of you may call them zucchini)

3 tablespoons olive oil

Dried herbs, if you like them. Or black pepper. Just don’t add salt!

To serve – any bread will do, pita or lavash are winners but heck, I’d eat this on white sliced, I’m not proud

METHOD

Light the oven, gas mark 6 or 200C.

Take an oven proof dish and put about one tablespoon of the olive oil into the bottom, this is where you’ll sit the cheese.

Using a vegetable peeler, peel lengthways strips/ribbons of courgette, a large courgette may mean you only need to do half. Or you could ribbon the whole thing and make a little salad with the rest. A little oil and vinegar and maybe a few pomegranate seeds so you look a bit Ottolenghi. Just a thought.

If you’re using herbs, sprinkle them on the Feta before it’s wrapped. Wrap your Feta. You can do this free form, as I do most of the time, or you can make two “mats“ and wrap the top and the bottom. Use the olive oil to make it shape round and stick down. You may need to tuck the ends underneath again when you put it in the oven dish.

Place the wrapped Feta in the oven-proof dish and bake for around 20-30 minutes so the courgette has browned a little.

I often cook roasted cauliflower alongside it as it takes about 30 – 40 minutes at the same temperature. Coat cauliflower florets in olive oil then anything you like. Garlic, herbs, pesto, harissa, whatever you fancy.

Serve with some kind of bread and maybe some kind of chutney or jam. Enjoy.